We did our bit for the Cusco economy by buying tickets for two different buses, after being told by locals that the first company we’d opted for weren’t to be trusted. This of course prompted heated debates and gesticulation, hasty refunds and a scrum for tickets on the next buses out of town. Rolling into bed at 2.30am didn’t really set us up for the 6.30am start the following day for our bus to Puno. We were hardly jumping for joy then, when another tabard wearing official at the bus station in Cusco (this time with the scare-mongering slogan “Live or Die: You Decide” on the back), decided our bus was unroadworthy and ordered us all off. This half-hour stand off came to an end when an American woman paid for the obnoxious oik (at one point I promise you she even said “No speako espagnol”). The bus was unneccessarily delayed when a particularly unpleasant young lady whose name wasn’t on the list refused to pay or get off the bus, claiming she should be on the list and had no cash (for fear of making enemies I won’t divulge her nationality but it rhymes with Fottish). For starters, we had splendid weather for our early start, the bus was prompt and didn’t topple over the perilous cliffs beside the dirt road up the mountain. No cafes/bars in which to kill the 9 hours until your trainĮnough negatives, the place was fantastic.We saw a small dog attacked by two smaller dogs.Our meal of pizza and a couple of beers cost more than Jane’s birthday meal in a decent restaurant of alpaca steak.The touts for restaurants in Aguas Calientes were worse than those in Cusco (we couldn’t believe this, but it was true).It cost 80 Peruvian soles, more than our 7 hour/400km journey to Puno would cost the following day
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